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Post by brighty on Feb 2, 2016 1:30:04 GMT
Hi fellow painters. Coming from a background of painting much larger figures, I am having trouble with washes at this scale. I need help with the consistency and preferably what ratio of medium to paint or ink. So far my efforts have been a right pain in the neck, and I am getting cheesed off with repainting. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers, Colin
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Post by ooiittee on Feb 2, 2016 2:24:08 GMT
You need a alot less wash on your brush. Better to apply a couple of coats than a blob that runs everywhere.
While a am all for great detail on figures I think your fighting an uphill battle using washes. Inks could have some success. But paint and shading is the way to go. As you have said your not painting larger figures anymore.
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Post by ooiittee on Feb 2, 2016 2:25:00 GMT
Can you post some shots of what your going for?
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Post by tim on Feb 2, 2016 6:13:40 GMT
And what inks are you using Colin?
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Post by brighty on Feb 2, 2016 22:41:29 GMT
I am using games workshop at the moment, but was thinking of getting some of the Vallejo washes.
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Post by brighty on Feb 2, 2016 22:49:32 GMT
Hi oooittee, I was using the wash sparingly but it just stained the whole figure(s). I am not looking to paint masterpieces, just to get a good look without taking to long to paint a unit/army. I have read some of the posts that say that the complete units in 2 - 3 hours. At the moment it takes me a great deal longer.
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Post by ooiittee on Feb 3, 2016 3:59:25 GMT
I feel your pain mate. Its something we all have to come to on our own, when is a figure good enough.
I have had success with using army painter light shader. Base colour the figure, paint on shader then reapply base colours as highlights. It can leave the figure a little dirty if you apply too much shader. But it's quick to do.
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Post by brighty on Feb 4, 2016 0:22:32 GMT
That's what I found when I was using ink and paint for washes. I have heard people talking of magic wash, using floor polish as a medium. You say army painter light shader, is that part of their dip range. If so have tried them and it is almost the same as putting black paint in gloss varnish. A friend of mine uses Sadolin wood stain. It comes in various shades, again he uses it on 20-25-28mm figures.
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Post by ooiittee on Feb 4, 2016 4:22:08 GMT
Yes army shader. If you paint it on you have more control of the darkness. Again just a light brush to create depth then apply base colours for highlights. Then Matt varnish to take off the gloss.
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Post by brighty on Feb 4, 2016 8:54:02 GMT
Yes that is what I do with mine, but darker shades on larger figures. I usually use Windsor and Newton matte varnish just slightly watered down.
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Post by tim on Feb 4, 2016 15:53:51 GMT
I only ever use Windsor and Newton Nut Brown ink as a wash for 6mm. It is the only one I have found you can put on straight from the bottle, even then you have to careful about areas like eyes, too much and it looks like they are wearing sun glasses. Dab your brush on a tissue and suck any excess off with the brush. I then highlight the whites after the wash.
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Post by brighty on Feb 4, 2016 22:33:39 GMT
Hi is that Windsor and Newton brown ink?
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Post by tim on Feb 4, 2016 23:20:02 GMT
Yes Colin I think they make 2 sorts, peat brown and nut brown. I use the nut brown.
Tim
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Post by bruce on Feb 5, 2016 6:04:18 GMT
I use the nut brown as well, in fact, I am sure I learned this from Tim. You may want to do some buildings, I use nut brown on Leven buildings. These models often have quite a bit of texture and ink applied as Tim directs really gets into all the areas, bringing out the detail and making you look like a pro. Dry brush in layers to finish.
I use use very little wash on my tiny H&R figures, my base coats vary depending on the uniform colors. Now that you are working with 6mm, you can think about how much detail you really want or need for these guys. They really look great en masse without too much detail to get a game going, but there are a number of master craftsmen on this forum who create amazing art with the slightly larger painter friendly figures, especially Adler minis. You have come to the right place for advice. Bruce
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Post by brighty on Feb 5, 2016 8:35:22 GMT
I usually dilute the Ink ink, maybe that is what I am doing wrorg. As for undercoat I use the cheap burnt umber or sienna from the Range, depending on darkness of uniform. I tried the drybrush method but found that white uniforms looked a very dirty white, that is why I want to try the "wash" technique. Cheers, Colin
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Post by bruce on Feb 5, 2016 15:39:08 GMT
I used to paint my Austrians with a tiny touch of gray in the white as I always wondered how they looked in the field and figured it would be hard to stay white. But in the end they didn't look right up close and from more than a couple of feet away it made little difference in this scale. I always wondered how they kept their uniforms clean on the march, and did they panic when they saw the blood? Not a practical choice for a uniform - I think the British probably stayed calmer with the blood not showing up so much on their red! Bruce
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Post by Richard on Feb 6, 2016 21:12:20 GMT
I always use a strong wash , I start with mid tone colours no dark shades once painted I give the whole figure a strong wash of army painter dark tone , then re apply the mid tones as highlights then final highlights 6mm needs strong contrasts or the detail gets lost
Richard
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Post by ooiittee on Feb 6, 2016 21:17:04 GMT
That's a very good point Richard. Contrast.
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Post by brighty on Feb 6, 2016 23:42:18 GMT
Well I will give anything a try. Thanks for the tips guys. Colin
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Post by brighty on Feb 9, 2016 3:24:14 GMT
Tried the nut brown ink earlier today, and it worked a treat. Thanks for all your help and suggestions, they were much appreciated
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Post by profjohn on Mar 5, 2016 5:32:03 GMT
Windsor and Newton nut or peat are best I think but I've used games workshop washes for buildings and vehicles and they work well too.
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