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Post by marcost on Jul 2, 2014 14:21:38 GMT
Hi all, A few WIP pics of my Waterloo Battlefield in the style of Bruce Weigle. Two boards will complete the playing area, 6' x 4' in total. The part-finished board is the east side of the battlefield, so Plancenoit will be at the bottom left of this board. A long way to go yet... Regards, M
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Post by Richard on Jul 2, 2014 14:43:46 GMT
You have made a great start already looks fantastic is that clay you use? Or another material .
Hope we get to see this project develope thanks for posting
Richard
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Post by marcost on Jul 2, 2014 15:48:48 GMT
Hi Richard,
Thanks, no it's polystyrene cut roughly to shape then a skim of lightweight filler over the top. Then a sheet of felt glued onto that to soften the contours and a cotton sheet glued on top of the felt.
I'll take some more photos - it's progressed since these, i now have the rivers finished, trees planted and more fields painted.
Regards,
M
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Post by tim on Jul 2, 2014 22:19:14 GMT
Very impressive!!!
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Post by Sho on Jul 3, 2014 0:57:59 GMT
Great work!
To avoid many similar topics, may be we all show our Waterloo battlefields here, on this topic?
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Post by Richard on Jul 3, 2014 6:10:46 GMT
I can add sub boards if members feel it's needed, I'm trying not to over complicate the forum , but under scenery you could have Northern Europe, Southern Europe , Russia, Egypt !. For instance . As the forum is new now is the time to implement these changes.
Richard
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Post by marcost on Jul 3, 2014 8:29:35 GMT
Thanks guys!
Splitting by theatres/geography sounds like a good idea to me
Regards
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Post by Richard on Jul 3, 2014 12:02:57 GMT
I have put the question to members in the lounge about splitting the board .
Richard
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Post by ian on Jul 4, 2014 17:38:50 GMT
Love the look you have got. I will try and get some work in progress shots from my mate Lee on our Waterloo boards. Still early stages for us as they need to be ready for next May. Lee now has all the allies (less Prussians) finished so he can pay more attention to the boards
Ian
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Post by marcost on Jul 6, 2014 10:10:49 GMT
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Post by Richard on Jul 6, 2014 10:14:43 GMT
That does look impressive, what did you use for the water effect ,
Richard
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Post by tim on Jul 6, 2014 11:17:20 GMT
Spendid marcost!
Looks like that stuff the model railway chaps use Richard, looks very nice but not cheap.
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Post by marcost on Jul 6, 2014 12:51:16 GMT
Thanks! I'm quite happy with it as a first attempt at this method. Water - I did start by using Woodland Scenics Realistic water, which is what railway modellers use. But you can only pour a few mm deep at a go and it dried milky white So, I read somewhere of using clear casting resin instead. It's a two part mix, quite easy to work with. I coloured it greeny brown while mixing, with a few drops of Vallejo colours. It took a couple of days to dry but looks good and has a nice translucent look. Doesn't show up on photos very well though Regards, M
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Post by ian on Jul 6, 2014 14:56:08 GMT
Looks a really nice set up
Ian
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Post by levenminiatures on Jul 6, 2014 16:24:08 GMT
that little bridge looks interesting too...
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Post by marcost on Jul 6, 2014 17:16:57 GMT
Thought you might recognise it
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Post by ooiittee on Jul 13, 2014 9:07:06 GMT
I am assuming you used Bruce's pinning of trees in place for you forests and trees, how did the Lightweight filler impede the placement of these if at all. If it didn't have an impact at all please let me know what filler you used. Ooiittee
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Post by marcost on Jul 13, 2014 9:33:24 GMT
I am assuming you used Bruce's pinning of trees in place for you forests and trees, how did the Lightweight filler impede the placement of these if at all. If it didn't have an impact at all please let me know what filler you used. OoiitteeHi I know exactly why you are asking, I had a cold sweat immediately after coating the boards with filler (which is not part of Bruce's method, he shapes hills with a hot knife but I couldn't get this right and the tool he uses is £100). Yes I use sewing pins and yes they go in fine, even where the filler is quite thick. I used this Polyfilla one fillYou can tell which one it is at the DIY store because when you pick it up, it feels empty! It's not cheap but I didn't have the time or tools to do it Bruce's way. I used a full 4 litre tub which cost about £25. I put it on with a flat scraper and when dry, sanded off any ridges. It sands really easily. Even with 4 litres on, the boards are still really light. Hope that helps Regards, M
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Post by ooiittee on Jul 14, 2014 9:25:30 GMT
I delayed starting my project for so long because I was unhappy with my tools for shaping the foam, until I picked up the woodlands Scenics hot wire cutter and then never looked back. That said I have found a new tool and a little talked about market of foam sculpting tools (mainly because they are not designed for it primarily) in Pryography. I got the idea to use a solder iron and maybe modify it to fit a thin but sold piece of wire to rig up a hot knife. Then I found Pryography tools. I have tried this multi purpose hot tool. Weller 30W Wood Burning and Hobby Kit I have posted a couple of other ideas on my blog also and so shots of the Weller at work in my latest project, Waterloo Campaign Map Link
Love to hear from anyone else using these types of tools for these style of boards. Oo PS: try this site for UK, not sure as I am an Aussie. modelshop.co.uk/Shop/Pyrography/
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Post by rct75001 on Jul 14, 2014 11:32:26 GMT
I have been lucky enough to play on some of Bruce's boards and your one looks magnificent.
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Post by marcost on Jul 14, 2014 19:04:31 GMT
Thanks rct!
Thanks for the info ooiittee, I tried using a gas soldering iron in a similar way but just couldn't get the control of the shaping that I wanted
Regards,
M
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david
New member
Posts: 7
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Post by david on Jul 18, 2014 22:53:45 GMT
I have also tried to emulate Bruce's terrain but I wanted a flexible system so I gued the felt on carpet underlay then formed the hils with 10mm hexes and placed the carpet on top.I still need to device better roads and rivers I also intend to do a Waterloo table for next year with this method but I need a good contour detailed map
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